Paying Buddha a Visit

Located an hour outside of Gwangju is Songgwansa Temple. Nestled against Korea’s rolling green hills, Songgwansa is isolated from the rest of Korea’s ‘plugged in’ population. To reach the temple, you take a bus to the neighboring village. From which, you walk for 15-20 minutes into the hills. Out of the tree-filled hillsides emerges a grouping of small buildings, all painted in traditional Korean colors of red, blue, green and white.

Songgwansa was built towards the end of the Shilla Dynasty( 57bc-935ad) and this age is visible in the severely faded facades of some of the temple’s prayer houses. The main Buddha hall, the most important building, is front and center. The size of this hall exceeds that of its neighboring buildings. The outside of the main Buddha hall is ornate, boasting carved windows, carved moldings, and hand painted walls, doors, and rooftops. Mirroring the hall’s outside façade, the inside is filled with intricate painted walls, carved pillars and a stunning altar. The large altar is front and center housing three large, gold Buddhas. At the Buddhas’ feet are numerous lit candles and incense; creating a somber mood for the ongoing prayer service. The room is filled with both monks and visitors. Anyone is welcome to crouch down and join the prayer service.


Branching out from the Main Buddha hall are other smaller prayer houses and the monks living quarters. All of the prayer rooms house ornate Buddha altars and intricately painted walls. Here people can come pray and mediate on their own time. All of these prayer house are also open to anyone to use. Surrounding all of the buildings of Songgwansa are meticulously kept grounds. No leaf, blade of grass, or gravel stone is out of place. It is clear that the same amount of focus which is put into mediation is also directed towards the upkeep of the Temple houses and grounds. Songgwansa is a fully functioning temple. Here, monks live and devote themselves to their faith, expanding their knowledge of Buddhism, and to the upkeep of the temple grounds.


If I had to wrap up our visit to Songwansa in one word, I would say: quiet. Our time at the temple was the first time, in a long time, when our ears weren’t filled with city noises. Rather, we were able to hear the prayers of the monks, the chirping of birds, and the rustling of leaves; all of these things which happen far too infrequently in our daily lives.