Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Korean Kisses

Monday night was the first time I’ve been kissed, on the mouth, by a man who wasn’t my boyfriend in nearly three and half years. Now before you start thinking what a floozy I am, allow me to explain.

In search of a quiet and relaxing evening on Monday, we decided to venture out for some Korean BBQ in our neighborhood. Neither of us felt like cooking and we thought the large bowl of spicy soup would help us with the colds we’ve been battling. We are the only non-Korean residents in our neighborhood, so each time we dine out we always get a few stares and we sometimes get freebies sent our way.

It all started with a bottle of coke. While quietly enjoying our meal, the waitress interrupted us to place a bottle of coke on our table. She signaled that is was from the two gentlemen sitting next to us. Minding our manners, we said thank you and began enjoying the fizzy beverage right away. After a few sips the gentlemen interrupted us and asked us if we like soju (it’s similar to vodka, but not as strong). We responded yes, and next thing I knew the man, let’s call him Mr. Kim from now on, was standing at our table pouring each of us a shot of soju. As is custom, you pour for the person who pours for you, so we reciprocated the gesture. Mr. Kim said thank you and went back to his table, but left us the remaining bottle of soju. In order to be polite we offered Mr. Kim more of his soju, but custom kicked in and he was pouring us two more shots. Eric and I were feeling the bite of the alcohol, but continued to eat our meal. Next thing we knew a new, full bottle of soju was placed on our table and we ended up splitting this with Mr. Kim and his brother. Just so we are all clear, Eric and I have now had SIX shots of soju each!

Dinner wrapped up and following us out the door was Mr. Kim and his brother. They wanted to treat us to a beer. Now what you all at home don’t realize is refusing anything in Korea is EXTREMELY rude, especially since we already accepted everything else. We were stuck going. So we found ourselves at the local pub, on a Monday at 7:30, drinking our way through two very large (30000 cc to be exact) pitchers of beer. All the while Mr. Kim and his brothers are trying to speaking English to us, but none of them speak English and we don’t speak Korean. Basically we are all yelling at each other and gesturing with our hands like Italians on mass amounts of sugar.

Eric and I had to draw a line. That line was a plate of fried chicken (keep in mind we already ate), two large pitchers of beer, and the clock striking 9:30. After an extensive set of charades in which we finally conveyed we were sick and we needed to wake up early for work the next day, they finally let us go. However, being a ‘gentleman’, Mr. Kim decided to walk Eric and I home. For the entire two block walk, Mr. Kim had Eric and me both securely under his heavy arms, causing me to slouch from the force. We soon found ourselves at the base of our hill and we signaled that this was us. After a bunch of Korean we didn’t understand, it happened.

His half open mouth found itself pressed against Eric’s face. With stealth-like speed, especially for a drunk person, Mr. Kim quickly landed his parted, moistened lips on the left half of my mouth. Now I don’t know about you, but that was a little forward for a first goodbye. We immediately jerked away, said goodbye and ran up our hill.

Tuesday morning I woke up with a hangover, a bad belly, and the hilarious and horrific memories of the night before. Oh Korea, you are so dynamic!

Sunday, November 28, 2010

School Rules

For the past week I’ve been administering speaking exams to each of my students. For the test, I ask each student a series of four questions, all of which we’ve studied this term. Since I average around 42 students a class, you can imagine this is a time consuming task. One of the questions I asked my second year students was “Tell me three rules here at Dae-Sung.” The responses varied with each student and I found myself marveling at some of the rules which are in place at my school. Below is a list of some of the rules which were reported to me over the last week.

1. You must wear your complete uniform each day to school. As students arrive to school, they are inspected by a group of upper classmen. If anything is untidy or out of place they are required to fill out a yellow card. This card means the student has to do 45 minutes of community service at the school. They have until the next school year to complete this.
2. Students’ hair may not be more than 7cm below their ears. If it is they must either cut it or tie it back. If they tie it back, their pony tails may not exceed 20 cm.
3. Students may not wear coats, scarves, gloves, or slippers in school. Keep in mind only the classroom is heated.
4. Students may not dye or perm their hair.
5. Students must attend two after school classes every day.
6. Students may not wear contact lenses, only glasses.
7. Students may not wear any make-up or accessories to school. Only a watch is allowed.
8. Students may not be driven to school by their parents. They are to walk up the hill leading to school. If students are driven by parents they are often dropped off around the corner so they will not be caught.
9. Students must bring their own toilet paper to school. The school does not provide toilet paper in student bathrooms.
10. At the beginning of each day, students must turn in their cell phone to their homeroom teacher and can only pick it up at the end of the day.
11. Students must clean their own school. There is a 20 minute period each day that is devoted to cleaning. In this time students clean their classroom and a designated area of the school.

Failure to comply with any of these rules at my school results in a yellow card and/or corporal punishment. For the most part, students understand and comply. However, being an all girls middle school many of my students try to get away with a short skirt, long hair, and/or make-up.

And you thought the school you went to was strict!

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Gobble Gobble

So while you (Americans) are stuffing your face with my favorite dishes: turkey, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce, I am administering speaking exams to all of my students. Despite missing out on the family togetherness of the day and the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, I still have a lot to be thankful for this year. So, if I was joining you for dinner this evening and you asked me what I was thankful for this year, here’s what I’d say:

“(Insert your name here), thank you so much for providing Thanksgiving dinner! It looks fantastic and smells delicious. “

To which you’d reply, “Thank you. Now help yourself.” After everyone was served, we’d go around the table saying what we are most grateful for this year. My turn would finally come around and you’d ask me, “Dana, what are you most thankful for this year?”

I’d reply, “Many things, but let me get specific.” After a moment of collecting my thoughts, and looking quite pensive in the process, I’d say:

“ – I’m thankful for Eric. I am grateful that through the obstacles of unemployment, multiple odd jobs, and an international move we’ve emerged on the other side a stronger and more centered unit. I’m also thankful, and lucky, to have someone who loves me as much as he respects me and I am proud to say I feel the same way.
--I’m thankful for my family. I’m lucky to have a Mom, Dad, and brother who support me unconditionally no matter what. Never have they second guessed my choices. I am also thankful for their health. There was a time when my mother was ill and I worried about her constantly. But I am happy to say due to good doctors and a lot of hard work on her part I don’t worry nearly as much as I used to.
--I’m thankful for my other ¾’s: Diana, Molly, and Gina. They are always an email, instant message or skype date away. I’m thankful that they fit me into their ever changing, busy schedules to listen to my complaining, problems, or odd stories. They help keep me centered, despite being thousands upon thousands of miles away.
--I’m thankful for the friends who’ve put in the effort to stay in contact with me since I’ve been away. By no means is it easy or convenient, but I’m grateful for all the updates and stories.
--I’m thankful for the Breaux and Maraist clans. They’ve always been a home away from home and a second family.
--I’m thankful for the friends we’ve made and the people we’ve met on this Korean journey
--I’m thankful for my job and the doors it has opened for me. Because of it, I’ve been able to keep doing what I’m passionate about while traveling the world at the same time.
--Mostly, I’m just thankful to have things to be thankful for. 2010 has been good to me.”

After letting that hefty list linger in the air for a few seconds, for dramatic effect of course, I’d raise my (insert drink here) and say, “and lastly, (you name here) thank you for such a great meal. Happy Thanksgiving!”

Have a great holiday everyone. Sending you much love from Korea.
XOXO

Sunday, November 21, 2010

New Find: Big Apple Coffee Shop



As our final weeks of school pass more and more quickly, Eric and I find ourselves enjoying our quiet weekend activities. Lucky for us, the fall is the dry season so we’ve been enjoying some sunny and crisp weather. Lately, we’ve gotten in the habit of going out for walks on both Saturday and Sunday. The reason for this is partly to enjoy the outdoors, but mostly to avoid paying bus fare. As our winter vacation approaches, we find ourselves literally pinching pennies when and where we can.

This past Saturday, our walking expedition took us to a new coffee shop. After reaching downtown, we choose to go down some never explored streets. Much to our surprise we stumbled upon the Big Apple Coffee Shop. It’s located off of a small alley-way and seems to be the only establishment on the small side street. Regardless, we were struck by its quaint stucco exterior and large windows. The inside is just as charming as the exterior, if not better. It looks like the Pottery Barn catalogue, a favored reading of mine, threw up everywhere. Needless to say I was in home décor heaven. What really sold us was the all glass sun room. This room was bright and warm, plus it had the added draw of a large stone and working, fireplace. With the fire roaring and the smell of wood in the air, it felt as if we’d been transported to a different place and time.





Not ready to leave this happy place, Eric and I ordered large coffees and soaked up the afternoon next to the fireplace. There it was fun to talk about what it will be like not to live in a matchbox of an apartment and how nice it will be to have a variety of restaurants to choose from. Those fireside, coffee filled few hours were just what we needed. With Thanksgiving just around the corner, we were both feeling a bit homesick for our Portland fall traditions. Even though we’ve only just found this place, we expect to visit it often. It’s already been decided that we want to spend Christmas morning there eating sweets, sipping coffee, and warming up by the fire. Maybe the holiday season won’t be too bad after all!





Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Happy Pepero Day

Once the Christmas trees have been brought down and the New Year’s celebrations are over, the holiday shelves make room for the fun and frivolous holiday February has to offer. Ornaments and party poppers are replaced with boxes of chocolate, red roses, and candied hearts. You all know the holiday of which I speak: Valentine’s Day. For us living in the West this happens once a year and couples and friends alike jump on board by purchasing various sweets and cards. However, here in the East this frivolous and fun tradition of sentiment and attention happens once, sometimes twice, a month. Here, in Korea the 14th of every month is considered a “couple’s day”, each month possessing a different theme. Around the first of each month, the new posters and products hit the shelves and remain there until about the 17th. Here is a list of monthly couple’s holidays:

- January 14th: Diary Day. To celebrate the New Year, couples are supposed to buy each other planners. The idea is that together they can mark down the significant plans, birthdays, anniversaries and holidays that are important to their relationship. Eric, what are those dates again?

- February 14th: Valentine’s Day. Don’t get this confused with how we do things in the West. Valentine’s Day in Korea is a day for a woman to confess, or show, her love to a man. On this day, it is solely the women who are buying gifts and treats to give.

- March 14th: White Day. Now it’s the man’s turn. This is the day when men can show their love and appreciation for that special lady in their life. Quite frankly I think it is unfair since the man received his gift the month prior, he knows exactly how much effort he needs to put in. For both of these days expect hotels to be booked up in advance. Since most people live with their parents until they are married, this is the only way for the couples to get some alone time and potentially see some action…wowza!

- April 14th: Black Day. Basically for the 11 months of the year when couples get a special day, Korea decided it needed to throw its single population a bone. Black Day is when singles get to publicly complain about how miserable and lonely they are. To commemorate this day, singles get together and eat black noodles (ramen noodles covered in a black bean sauce). If you are single you are supposed to dress in black, in turn letting other singles know you are available…Korea you are so clever!

- May 14th: Rose Day. The idea here is that couples exchange roses. My question is, just one? What happens if you give more? Is the number of roses directly related to how much you love the other person?

- June 14th: Kiss Day. Before you get carried away thinking how sweet this is, listen in. The idea here is that you kiss everyone you meet on this day. So do they really mean for this to be “here’s-a-free-pass-to-get-out-of-your-relationship Day”. Because I’m pretty sure if Eric went around locking lips with everyone he met in one day, I might be a bit peeved.

- July 14th: Silver Day. The couples who survived Kiss Day can show how strong their bond is by buying each other something silver. Now I know my mother could get behind this one.

- August 14th: Green Day. No, not green as in environmentally friendly. Green as in the color of soju (liquor) bottles. The idea is that couples escape to nature to spend time with one another while the remaining single people of this country drown their sorrows in a bottle, or two, of booze. So while you may be fine and fancy free drinking your soju tonight, tomorrow you’ll not only be lonely and miserable again, but you’ll have the hangover to prove it.

- September 14th: Photo Day. This is a time for vain couples to take photos together, get them printed, and put them on display in their houses. Keep in mind it would most likely be your parents’ house.

- October 14th: Wine Day. Buy a bottle, or two, of wine and enjoy it with your significant other. Foreigners be warned: Korean wine is terrible. Expect to shell out the big bucks for an imported bottle.

- November is twice as nice, giving you two couples days this month!
o 11th: Pepero Day. For all you non-Koreans out there, Peperos are sweet, thin bread sticks dipped in chocolate. You buy this in various sizes and flavors and exchange them with your sweetheart. This is extremely popular among friends and colleagues as well.
o 14th: Movie Day. Go to the local theater and watch a flick with your significant other. I’ll say it now, I’m not going. I refuse to try to watch a film with the rest of the theater is sucking face around me…gross!

- December 14th: Hug Day. On this day, give your partner a big ol’ hug. I think the idea is to show how much you love each other, but let’s be honest it’s cold in December. If I’m hugging anyone in public it’s because I need to warm myself up.

So there you have it, the thirteen romantic holidays of Korea. Consider this my Pepero Day gift to you.
XOXO

**Note: I have the best students. When I arrived to work today (Pepero Day) I had five boxes of Peperos waiting for me. Today’s score: my students 5, Eric 0. Just saying ;)

Monday, November 8, 2010

Christmas Cheer and Kebabs!



As previously mentioned our holiday season is not off to our usual start. Fall proves to be a fickle season here. Since temperatures went from temperate to cold, it froze the leaves where they were. However, we had a brief warm up this past weekend and the gingko trees which line the streets are now a vibrant shade of yellow.

Desiring the need for a cozy evening, Eric and I decided to brave the chilly, blustery evening and head to Shinsagae, the local upscale department store. What makes department stores, especially Shinsagae, nice to visit here are their basements. In the basement of every department store in Korea one can find a grocery store and food court. Because Shinsagae appeals to a higher end of clientele, imported goods can be found in abundance in the grocery and food court sections. Much to our surprise, when we went there in search of some dinner last night we ended up finding two of our favorite things: Christmas displays and kebabs.

Upon entering the store, our eyes were immediately drawn to a red, green, and gold wintery display. In the center of the floor, located between the Burberry and Louis Vuitton boutiques, were a slew of tall trees, twinkling lights and ornaments, and vibrant poinsettias. Standing in front of this quaint display, Eric and I were in awe; eyes wide open and beaming smiles in awe. I am sure this sounds funny to you, but since moving here we have given up any traditions we had. We accepted this as the difference in cultures and generally truck along. But to walk into a store during the fall holiday season and see a Christmas display was so unexpected we knew we had to savor the moment. We’ve both agreed that going to Shinsagae to drink coffee/hot chocolate in front of the Christmas display is a once a week, must do event this holiday season.



After pulling ourselves away from the Christmas cheer, we headed to the food section downstairs. After wandering stand after stand of food stalls we saw them; the chicken kebabs. We’ve perused Shinsagae frequently since moving to Gwangju and we have never seen kebabs. However, last night they made their debut appearance and we could not tear ourselves away. We ordered our savory wraps and wasted no time in biting in. While not fully traditional, the kebabs were crunchy, tangy, and immensely savory. The combination of barbecued chicken, crisp cabbage, and tangy sauces placed me in a state of culinary euphoria. Again, I don’t expect you to fully understand. Even though Korea tries, key word being ‘tries’, to make Western food, the food still always tastes Korean. It will be accompanied by kimchi, pickled radishes, and/or have globs of mayonnaise or Thousand Island dressing. These kebabs were the first sandwich/wrap we’ve had here which did not have any of the above. Needless to say we were in heaven.

I look forward to the next 7 weeks leading up to Christmas. I look forward to sipping hot chocolate, gazing at the Christmas displays, and munching on many more kebabs. ‘Tis the season!



Tuesday, November 2, 2010

A Spooky Saturday

Living in Korea for the last nine months has meant learning to put my American habits and customs on the backburner and open my mind to the traditions rooted in the East. I’ve been fairly good at this so far. I happily embraced Buddha’s birthday, teacher’s day, Chuseok, and numerous other Korean national holidays. In light of doing this I watched St. Patrick’s Day, Easter, Independence Day, and Labor Day slip by unnoticed. However, when it came to Halloween I put my foot down. I refused to shrug my shoulders and accept a lack of Halloween as a possibility. Luckily, my friends felt the same way.

For the week leading up to Halloween, we all wandered the Emarts and Homeplus’s of Gwangju to find a way to turn ordinary items into a costume. After scouring what these places had to offer, I settled on Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer. While I don’t fully understand it, headbands with ears and other bedazzlements are very popular with Koreans, and I was able to find a headband with red antlers as well as a red clown nose. To pull my look together I bought a set of brown thermals. Thus Rudolph was born. Eric got lucky and found an inexpensive pirate kit at Emart.

On Saturday night we hosted our friends at our apartment for a make shift Halloween party. In our tiny studio apartment, we managed to squeeze in Spiderman, a monkey, a vampire, a cat burglar, a pirate, a woman, and masquerade ball-goer. We kept the festivities going with dim lighting, which was the result of our light bulb blowing out, but I think it gave our soiree the spook factor it needed. Although I’m pretty sure we looked like a bunch of freaks drinking in the dark!

After spending an ample amount of time at our place, we decided to take our festivities downtown. We heard through the grapevine that the Western bar, Speakeasy, would be hosting a Halloween bash. So we piled into cabs and walked through the busy streets of downtown in our costumes. Now if I thought we got stared at before, we were definitely gawked and pointed at from the moment we left our apartment until we made it to the bar. However, it was all worth it. We ended up surrounded by Westerners and Koreans alike who are fond of the holiday. What made the evening more memorable was seeing what costumes people created from everyday items. Overall, Halloween turned out as it always does; filled with candy, costumes, cocktails…no complaints here!









Baring It All!

Before moving here I’d heard a lot about Jimjilbang’s, Korean bath houses. I knew they were quite popular and were meant to have some health benefits. I told myself I would go, but alas I found myself over eight months into my contract with no jimjilbang experience. Well this all changed last weekend. On Saturday some girlfriends and I decided to throw our modesty and inhibitions to the wind and brave the bath house.

We met up Saturday morning, with the boys in tow, and made the nearly 30 minute bus ride to the bath house. The distance was long by choice; we went there 1. Because our friend Luke had been there once before and 2. the long distance ensured all of us that we would not see any of our students. Once arriving at ‘Ocean Spa’ the girls and boys were separated to their perspective bath rooms. Rachel, Holly, and I could not help but laugh the entire time. Sure we are all women and we have the same bits and pieces, but we were slightly uncomfortable and nervous. Regardless, we knew what needed to be done, stripped down to nothing, and made our way to the spas. Upon entering we were all greeted with various stares and pointed fingers. Now this is something the three of us are used to as foreigners. We are constantly pointed and gawked at in public. However, when you are naked it just isn’t nice. I was beginning to develop a complex about the stuff I was strutting. Was my body oddly proportioned to them, did they think my lady bits were deformed/misshapen in some way? I didn’t know what made us so special, but we were all willing to hurry into a pool of water.

The spa room is comprised of six different pools, all varying in water temperature. The coolest pool is about 18 degrees Celsius and the hottest pool is around 42 degrees Celsius (that’s about 60-108 degrees Fahrenheit). In addition to the differing temperatures, the pools are also treated with different minerals and scents. The idea of the pools is to move from hot to cold and then back to hot again. This movement between varying temperatures is said to improve circulation and to help get rid of cellulite. Yes! After spending as much, or as little, time in the pools as you want there are also four saunas at your disposal ranging from 45 degrees Celsius to 62 degrees Celsius. If spending any combination of time in these places doesn’t make you feel like your body has sweated out any and all toxins I don’t know what will.

Once we were done in the pool room we made our way up to the upstairs, coed portion of the bath house. Here there is a food bar, wide open rooms for socializing/meeting up, and six sweat lounges. Here, you wear the uniforms which were given to you when you entered the facility. The sweat rooms are large clay domes, where you sit/lay on the pebble floor. These rooms too vary in temperature. The coldest coming in at 0 degrees Celsius and the hottest coming in at 97 degrees Celsius (keep in mind water boils at 100 degrees Celsius). I stayed in the 50 degree room and found myself comfortably sweating.

By afternoon’s end, we spend around four hours there, I was famished and shaking. I forget how hard heat can be on the body. I was completely drained of all energy, but I was surprising still feeling good. Rachel and I grabbed a large bowl of ramen before we left and headed home. Despite the initial discomfort earlier in the day, I was really happy with my bath house experience. So much so, that I want to go back again. The best part, this four hour spa and relaxation treatment only cost me the equivalent of $5! It’s safe to say I’ll be baring it all again and very, very soon!