Prague Part I

Getting There:
WARNING--if you ever find yourself looking for a flight and this potential flight as a connection in Moscow DO NOT book it. Flying both to and from Europe we had a connecting flight in Moscow and it was an absolute nightmare. The staff was unfriendly, unhelpful and unorganized. Allow me to explain. To begin with our flight from Seoul was delayed, thus shortening our layover to about an hour. While we knew we would be cutting it close, we thought we could make it…wrong! First off, the terminal we flew into (Terminal F) does not allow arriving planes to use a skybridge. So in Moscow, in the middle of winter, one must exit the plane directly onto the tarmac and funnel his/her way onto a shuttle bus. Keep in mind the shuttle bus waits, with doors and windows open, until it is packed like a sardine can before it makes its way towards the terminal. Once delivered, we needed to make it through a passport check before we could board make our connecting flight. We soon realized we’d be missing our connection when three planes had just unloaded and there was only one person checking passports. To further complicate the process there was no line, but rather a pushing/shoving mass of people. Once we had finally made it through, we had missed our flight and would have to get on the plane that left at 11 pm. However, the people at the transfer desk refused to help us until 45 minutes before that flight since that was when check in took place. So that’s how Eric and I came to spend four hours in the Moscow airport; a magical place where you can consume liquor straight from the container and you can smoke anywhere and as much as you like.

However, the “fun” didn’t stop there. By the time we made to our hotel in Prague, around 1:30 am, we weren’t allowed inside the building, but rather we were greeted out front. There the owner informed us that of the four nights we had booked with them, we would only be able to stay with them for three. Meaning, that first night, right then, we had to go somewhere else. Luckily for us, he took the liberty of booking us a room nearby and we just had to walk there. So that’s how at 1:45 am Eric and I found ourselves walking the streets of Prague with luggage in tow. By the time we got settled into our new room it was 2:15 and we were ready for bed.



Day 1:
After a good night’s sleep and moving back to our original hotel, Eric and I decided to get a head start on the day. We knew we wanted to explore as much of Prague as possible, as to get a lay of the land, so that we could go back and hit individual landmarks on a later day. Our day started with us walking through Lesser Town. Lesser Town is a hilly part of Prague which contains Prague Castle, St. Nicholas’ Church, and most of the international embassies. As we climbed through the cobbled streets of Lesser Town, we’d stop from time to time snap photos but also to take in everything around us. Coming from Korea, I think I eyes were over stimulated with bright colors and elaborate architecture of the buildings. After looping around St. Nicholas, we began to climb the steps which would lead us to the outer walls of Prague Castle. Once we reached the top, we realized how lucky we were to have gotten an early start. The city was still quiet and the sun was still low enough to give everything a hazy glow. It was then I realized this was without a doubt the best place to view all of Prague. From here you could see the great buildings/monuments of Prague rise above the terracotta roofs of the pastel colored buildings. It was as if a painting had been placed before my eyes.



After sneaking a brief look at the inner courtyard of the palace (more to come on this later), we made our way down to the river and began to cross the Charles Bridge. Unlike my other half, I have never had a favorite bridge; that was until I saw the Charles Bridge. Still standing from the 15th century, the Charles Bridge is a rough and old beauty. Darkened to a deep shade of charcoal, the Charles Bridge looks every bit as old as it is. Lined with 30 statues and paved with uneven cobbles, the Charles Bridge is the epitome of gothic architecture. What should have been a five minute crossing at most, turning into a twenty minute ordeal. Eric, trying to blaze our trail, had to constantly stop and wait for me as I snapped picture after picture and as I closely examined each of the statues. Slowly but surely we made the crossing and soon found ourselves in the Old Town Square.



The Old Town Square is a vast, open, and (you guessed it) cobbled space. The square is marked by four distinct buildings/monuments: the Tyn Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church (there are two in the city), the astronomical clock, and the Jan Hus Memorial. All four of these are beautiful and unique in their own right. The Tyn, with its towering, dark and intricate spires, St. Nicholas with its baroque architecture and twin bell towers, the astronomical clock with its golden face and dials, and the once bronze now green Jan Hus Memorial. Standing at the center of the square, you’ll quickly gain a deep appreciation and respect for Prague. Taking in every inch of the square and warming up with some mulled wine, fatigue caught up with us and we headed back to the hotel for a break.



After a much needed rest and a salami, cheese, and bread dinner, Eric suggested we go out and grab a drink. He didn’t want us to call it a day at 5 pm. So we bundled up and headed out in the snow to the Prague Beer Museum; which isn’t a museum at all, but rather a really nice bar. There, they have 30 Czech brews on tap. In order to get a few tastings in, we ordered two different beers each. I sampled a great hefeweizen and a deep amber beer, while Eric went for an unfiltered pilsner and a lager. All of which were amazing. It was still snowing after we finished our drinks so Eric, being mildly obsessed with weather, suggested we walk back to the Old Town Square to see what it looked like in the snow. After moaning about how cold it was, I ultimately gave in.

And thank God I did. The square was absolutely stunning. Snow had dusted the Tyn’s spires, the Jan Hun Memorial, and the cobblestones. Immediately I took out my camera and started clicking away. After I was finished, I put the camera away and took it all in once more before leaving. It was the perfect way to kick off our vacation.