Jeonju Nights

A stranger passing by classroom 209 between 7-8 PM the last few nights might assume that a group of people were dying, or passing nightmarish bowel movements, based on the noises emanating from the room. But no, it was just our class attempting to learn the Korean alphabet and trying to make the sounds of each character. Attempting is the key word, because most of the sounds were so unnatural that we had little chance of repeating them correctly. Nevertheless, we managed to learn how to introduce ourselves in Korean and read a few of the characters after four classes.

After Korean class ended, most of us were ready to relax and/or get a drink, so we wandered off campus and found what we assumed was a bar. We walked in and grabbed our table of choice since we were the only patrons, but realized immediately that the Korean classes had not paid off because we still couldn't read any of words on the menu that was a little sparse in the English department. Gesturing to the owner we managed to get a pitcher of the world renowned Korean beer, Hite, and a bottle of soju, the Korean drink of choice which is like a little bottle of sweet vodka.

The bar slowly began to fill in with other EPIK teachers looking to relax after the long day of teaching as well as Korean students from the University we were staying at. We were amazed to watch the Korean people order food and casually take shots of soju as if it were nothing while all the westerners recoiled at the strength and initial taste. (Not to worry Americans, we eventually did you proud and shamed a few Canadians and British along the way, just like in the Olympics!)

Alas, the night was cut short by an early wake up call the next morning followed by a long day of lectures and preparations for our presentation. Tomorrow we will present our lesson plans to the rest of the class, and then it's off to our own apartment and school in Gwangju on Friday!

The Past in the Present

Even though South Korea can be considered one of the most modern countries in the world, ‘modern’ in the East is much different than ‘modern’ in the West. I do not want to take away from South Korea’s well deserved title; this is the most wired and one of the most technologically advanced countries I’ve been to. However, where Korea separates itself from its Western counterparts is in the past. The further the Korean people move towards the future, they never let go of their collective past. Every tradition, greeting, and culinary dish can be traced back through folk tales and handwritten scrolls. Being from a relatively new country, this deep connection to the past fascinates me. Everything here has a purpose and everyone knows what that purpose is.

There are few better places to explore this fascination than where we are staying in Jeonju. Jeonju birthplace and home of the most famous Korean dynasty, the Joseon (pronounce Chosun) Dynasty. The lands here bore Korea five hundred years worth of kings and Jeonju is still home to the last surviving heir to the dynasty. On Sunday our orientation group was given a break from lectures and lesson plans to explore Jeonju’s Hanok Village, an old part of town boasting traditional Korean homes and fortresses. Walking the streets we stumbled upon the old courtyards of the Joseon land. Today, cobblestone pathways lead to shrines of the kings, but it is not hard to imagine these yards bustling with politics and important people.

While the courtyards and royal land has remained intact, the surrounding land has been developed with modern buildings. This juxtaposition of new and old creates an odd sense of harmony. Despite this, the Korean people still know where they come from. Even today, Korean people stop by a shrine just off of the street, but in front of the courtyards, and bow down to pay their respects; no one is superior to this.

After walking exploring the older villages, our group was invited by the local city government to the nearby cultural center. There, we partook in the ancient Korean traditions of papermaking, traditional drum dance, and witnessed a traditional Korean wedding service. Here, these events are not something put on for special groups, but rather these are daily occurrences anyone can attend. The collective memory of the Korean people is strong. They will never forget who they are or where they come from; a sense of self I am truly envious of.

Seoul to Seize

The minute I stepped off the bus, Seoul took my breath away. Not only is Seoul an enormous city, but the amount of people, shops, and advertisements can put anyone into sensory overload. Eric and I decided to arrive to Korea a day early so we could explore this giant city. Lucky for us, our friends Ian and Leslie also teach here and were able to walk us through the first day of our new life.

After we maneuvered the back alleyways of the city to drop our luggage off, Ian and Leslie wasted no time on showing us how to use the public transit system. The streets of Seoul have an over abundance of buses: green ones, blue ones, red ones, charter buses, and tour buses. Each color/type possessing numerous routes. For the equivalent of 70 cents, we hopped a bus and headed to a popular area of town. The streets are filled with different vendors, restaurants, coffee shops, and any other type of store you can think of. But as we wandered Seoul’s streets all of these shops had a common thread—they were all closed. Even though our flight got in early, we did not reach Seoul until 9:30am, even then we didn’t leave Ian and Leslie’s apartment until after 10. I asked if it was a holiday of sorts, but it turns out that most things don’t open until noon. Why? Apparently it has to do with all the drinking Koreans do after work! It is not unusual for businessmen to go out for a night on the town on a Tuesday evening. This means stores stay open very late and thus don’t open until noon. The owner has to get some sleep I guess

However, one of the few things that were open was Paris Baguette, a Korean version of a French bakery. Yes, you read that right. There are pleasant pastries such as croissants, chocolate bread, and doughnuts, but there are also red bean paste buns, hotdog concoctions, and I quote “glutinous pastries.” I was feeling adventurous so I tried it all, minus the hotdog based pastries. Rumor has it Korean hotdogs are not up to Costco’s delicious standards.

Later we were taken to a University district were we wandered Ewah University, an all girl’s college. EU is built onto a hill which boasts an impressive view of Seoul. Reaching the top was exhausting but well worth it. Seoul seems to spread as far as the eye can see. After spending only one day in the city I already cannot wait to return. Despite walking a lot, I know I only covered a miniscule section of Seoul. Until another day…

First Impressions

A few observations about Koreans after a few days among them....

1) Traffic laws are mere suggestions, anything goes.

2) Sidewalks make great parking spots

3) McDonald's delivers, enough said.

4) Everything is miniature - cups, towels, napkins, restaurant tables/chairs - I feel like a giant.

5) Koreans are more into fashion than Elton John and P Diddy combined.

6) Koreans bleed Kimchi. A meal without Kimchi is not a meal at all, unfortunately.

7) Hot dogs apparently go with everything, including ramen.

8) Turns out there aren't many blond Koreans. I stand out.

14"x19"x30”

14"x19"x30" are the dimensions which define our life for the next year. Everything we want to bring with us must not only fit within these dimensions, but these items must also weigh less than 50lbs (without extra fees). With only five days left until our departure, Eric and I find ourselves struggling to decide what is necessary and what is not. What I find the most difficult to plan for is our orientation. Once Eric and I arrive in Seoul, we will be put up in a university dorm for ten days while we learn the basics of the Korean education system and Korean culture. While I am grateful for an extensive introduction to our new life, what must I plan to bring for this event? I know I need the basic toiletry items, maybe a towel, but I am still struggling to find room for all of these things!

Outside of the packing issue, Eric and I could not be more excited to start the next chapter of our lives. There are so many things we are excited for it is hard to articulate into words when people ask, "Are you excited?" We give the generic "Of course we are," but it is so much more than that. We are excited to move, work, travel, eat good food, and meet new people. I know what excites me the most is that I get to do all of these things with my best friend.

So what the next year has in store for us is still unclear, we do know one thing--we are looking forward to sharing our experiences with you!

Ciao for now,
Dana & Eric