Monday, February 22, 2010

The Past in the Present


Even though South Korea can be considered one of the most modern countries in the world, ‘modern’ in the East is much different than ‘modern’ in the West. I do not want to take away from South Korea’s well deserved title; this is the most wired and one of the most technologically advanced countries I’ve been to. However, where Korea separates itself from its Western counterparts is in the past. The further the Korean people move towards the future, they never let go of their collective past. Every tradition, greeting, and culinary dish can be traced back through folk tales and handwritten scrolls. Being from a relatively new country, this deep connection to the past fascinates me. Everything here has a purpose and everyone knows what that purpose is.

There are few better places to explore this fascination than where we are staying in Jeonju. Jeonju birthplace and home of the most famous Korean dynasty, the Joseon (pronounce Chosun) Dynasty. The lands here bore Korea five hundred years worth of kings and Jeonju is still home to the last surviving heir to the dynasty. On Sunday our orientation group was given a break from lectures and lesson plans to explore Jeonju’s Hanok Village, an old part of town boasting traditional Korean homes and fortresses. Walking the streets we stumbled upon the old courtyards of the Joseon land. Today, cobblestone pathways lead to shrines of the kings, but it is not hard to imagine these yards bustling with politics and important people.

While the courtyards and royal land has remained intact, the surrounding land has been developed with modern buildings. This juxtaposition of new and old creates an odd sense of harmony. Despite this, the Korean people still know where they come from. Even today, Korean people stop by a shrine just off of the street, but in front of the courtyards, and bow down to pay their respects; no one is superior to this.

After walking exploring the older villages, our group was invited by the local city government to the nearby cultural center. There, we partook in the ancient Korean traditions of papermaking, traditional drum dance, and witnessed a traditional Korean wedding service. Here, these events are not something put on for special groups, but rather these are daily occurrences anyone can attend. The collective memory of the Korean people is strong. They will never forget who they are or where they come from; a sense of self I am truly envious of.

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